Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

s14a dori project .....Sil80 reshelling

Recommended Posts

Rear lip is similar to type x just without the sillu curvy bits around the exhaust and tow hook


Drill bit is special order... 2 week wait on nearly $40 at staff price, so looking other options :(

Dropped the calipers off for coating, was going to go teal but only colour close to what I wanted was custom order so just went same as other stuff


Aim for track days was glory days, but that looks like it isnt going to happen. So most likely ida easter monday if im not working then see how the car holds up.


Regos pumping me lately, but might try to order clutxh so I can get the ball rolling on fixing it

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my 14mm from bunnings and it was about $20 from memory.


It's a German masonry drill bit with a chisel type head on it.


The guy there said it was fine to use on hardened steel and it did the job fine on my coil overs.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Where was lip sourced? Streeter?


Can't wait to see this come together, eagerly watching this thread almost every day haha

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw masonry bits, but it has to drill through 15mm of solid steel on the driftworks knuckles 4 times

Might just do the old drill bit at an angle to enlarge the hole to see if that works :lol:


Lip wasn't through streeter, he was going to have to send it ems and cut it in half. It was a bit of debarkle though.



Actually mounted it semi properly, fits pretty well as its just a cable tie each corner and 2 under the number plate.Needs some sikaflex/tape to pull it tight on the quarters though at the top

I was worried it was hanging too low, but lines up with the aero skirts reasonably well




It does budge out a bit more than OEM aero, which looks pretty weird when I had the small rims on, but with the KFs you just see tyre so dont notice it as much.

Though it is pretty much the most subtle lip I could find. Besides maybe

-Bonneville, which seems super hard to find for 180 and not sure if it would suit

-Type X everywhere and not a huge fan how it curves around the rear bar

- CDM, the factory option canadian lip which is even impossible to find in america.


So pretty happy with it seeing as it will just explode anyway


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Might sound weird man but if you call the local tafe they might be able to help drill it out - we used to do this for local panel shops and mates that wanted 1 off pieces made and cut and shut pannels etc.


looks like its all coming together nicely :thumb: rear lip makes such a massive impact

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Calipers are done, I was going to go Teal, but seems to be pretty flavour of the month and power was custom order so longer wait+ expensive. Tommy managed to talk me into chrome




Went to chuck them on ended up buying a multipurpose drill bit that was 14 mm but more like a splade cutting edge on a 12mm bit. Got through the first 1 or 2 not too bad, Josh came around to help but the bit was blunt buy the 3rd. Around that stage had pretty much overheated and burnt out my drill as well so switched to the air drill. For the last one the splades had been worn down so that that by the time the last hole was done it was bearly 13mm. So had to pretty much just sitt there and mill it out slowly till the caliper bolts fit. After taking a lot longer than I thought they were on and bled.






No a lot of work, but few things arriving.



flywheel bolts

pressure plate bolts.

Aero grill

Got a $.3 Nismo 2 way on the way as well






Sold the skyline over the weekend and went out and bought this thing. Instead of buy a cheap, or questionably modded one. Tried to be a little sensible for once, so got a BF2 owned by a guy in his 50's that has had it since about a year old.

Apparently these are the pick of the B series as they have the typhoon spec motor with better rods, valve springs ect so less to worry about if I decide to mod it.




Looks like it was reasonably optioned up or a premium model. As it has the leather, bigger brakes, hardtop ect.

He did some old man mods of XR8 bonnet, copy typhoon front bar (got the stocker though too), stereo, reverse cam, TV receiver, bob jane 19s.

But most importantly it was mechanically stock, well maintained, with full log books, brand new clutch and replacement gearbox, oil feed braided line with filter ect.

He even chucked in a Xcal 1 that he bought ages ago as he was going to reflash it... Later to find out they were pretty much useless and he wasted his money so gave up on performance mods.


Not a fan of the lensos on it so test fitted some wheels



People seem to be able to fit pretty massive wheels, but im not liking my luck

Rear a 18x10+0 had a good inch poke. It is stock height, this would normally camber in a touch when lowering, but due to solid rear im guessing it will just look mexican and more than likly munch the gaurds on compression once lowered, Similar case with the matching front being a 18x9-4 it too poked a good inch, though at least this would come in a bit with natural camber after lowinging it


The main issue seems to be that the tub actually recceses back in, so from the top doesnt look like a lot of poke but actually is, like the opposite of a pumped gaurd

Shame as I think they would actually suit it once lowered with appropriate tyre size and would save me buying another set of rims






I then tried some 17x9+20 BBS RS, looked good. The issue was they required too much spacing as center bore was too small to actually drive on them. By the time they were spaced out they were at a 9+12 and just inside the gaurds.

There was no use to try much else I had as they are all 17x10 in neg offsets and would have no chance


Unfortuantly the rain started to get heavier so I forgot to take pics.

But im going to aiming for a pretty boring 18 or19 9.5+15ish rear and 9+12ish fronts as want to minimise chance of scrubing while towing. At least this is a fairly common size and easy to find something non china.


For now I chucked on the V35 stockies as they are a little more sedate and hopefully selling the 19s will go towards lowering it. needed spacers to clear center bore with 8mm on the front and 5 on the back but seems to work





Plan pretty much is to lower it with some springs and shocks + an air assist kit in the rear.


Maybe if I get bored apparently with cat, injectors and tune you can get high 200's out of them, but will see how it goes

Keep it quite and repetitively reliable

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



clays managed to fit some silly wheels on his without much drama. lil mexico up front but eh.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah he fitted some massive wheels


Plan is to lower it, probably just king springs superlow front and rear, replacement shocks, air assist in the rear. Roll the guards then try again.


Everything looked pretty silly at the rear with 2in guard gap

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ridiculous. You should run my 16x7.5 nisbro's.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had 17x9.5 +18 and 17x10 +18 on my au xr8.


If you are chasing 300+rwkw still do valve springs even the late model stock ones go soft after 100ish k so you get float.

Good buy though mate.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes as the nismos wont look tiny and bearly clear the brakes ... things got decent 320ish mm rotors on it


YEah I was thinking around that generic sizing, jsut a bit less stech than I would usually run to make it a bit easier on them towing

Edited by (Locky)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Clay came by and tried on my equips. I don't understand how but they almost fit. With a small roll and adjustment, she would have been apples.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah got no idea... maybe it will make sense once lowered


Few things happening,

Sunday I procrastinated working on the sil80 so I installed a new electronic brake controller and trailer plug. Always fun ripping apart a new car.

Then that arvo I got the shits with the crooked stickers so ripped them all off. A heat gun made it pretty easy, but one side left a lot of glue which ment a lot of work with wax and grease remover to get all the residue off. Ripped off the wing as well.

Mate picked it up that night to do a detail on it the next day.


Monday decided to get working on the sil80, was already over it jacking it up, f**k low cars



Had the box out relatively easy, there was a bit of fluff from the clutch in the bell housing, but didnt look too bad.

Ripped it off and changed the imput shaft using the grease method with an allen key head bolt, didnt think it was working but after a few goes was pokjing out a mm. After doing it about 10 times had enough to get plyers on it and wriggle it out. NEw one tapped straight on.

Chucked the new clutch on. I was hoping to get a lightened flywheel, but that didnt happened. Stocker looked ok since it got machined last time, called it a day after installing the clutch and swapping the throw out bearing.



That night got the Falcoon back from detailing, happy with the new look for now.



Today I just had to put the box back on. After getting everything ready while I was waiting (loosening everything off, tilting engine back, clutch fork ect) Brother came out to help. We got it lined up and engaged in 1 hour which was a vast improvement from 2+ last time. Then I just did all the bolts up and put everything back together.

I didnt do tail shaft and fill it up as im hoping that diff will rock up before long weekend so I can chuck it in as well.


The clutch still feels weird and slave is super stiff. Thinking about chucking the s14 slave/ master in to see if that makes it fell better compared to the generic stuff in the 180 atm. Really dont want them to be the cause of f**king another clutch.


Decided I really want to try and make the easter monday wakie day, even if it sends me broke. So ordered some AU thermos and went to get tyres. Came to the conclusion that there is no way to make 6 17/18x10's fie with the hardtop closed so thats annoying. But I got 3 pairs of new tyres done for it.... This shit is getting expensive.




I may be pushing it to get an alinement before then, but if diff doesnt rock up by thursday ill put it all back together friday and try and put a few km on the clutch o bed it in ( easter long weekend will be perfect timing to drive this on the street...)


Kinda wish these fit


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The diff and thermos both arrived wednesday arfternnon and brother was home to accept them which was awesome


Yesterday arvo I started by hacking up the thermos to fit, got them in just not wired. After that I started on the diff swap, managed to get it both in and out alone without mameing myself,which is always good.




First thing this morning ripped the clutch master and slave out of the s14 then swapped them over. Took ages to get any fluid moving, but after doing the equivalent of a bench bleed it slowly got all the air out. Took a few hours to get everything back together and filled. Started it up and all seemed good, ran it though a few gears in the air and it seemed to work just super high engagement and no free play in the clutch got it back on the ground. Wound the pedal 3/4 of the way in and it is till a bit high and super bitey but now has a bit of free play so at leas im sure its not got any preloaded from being too high.




Still havent wired up the thermos as didnt have everything I needed and shop wasnt open so will do that after work just off a switch for now. Put the flares back on and trimmed a little so they kinda fit with the rear lip.

Took it for a spin and everything seems to be in working order, diff is no louder than old one besides the clutch being super on/off seems alright and seleced gears fine. Diff ratios seem to make it a bit better couldnt relly tell as I didnt want to be thrashing it through the suburbs and not going on a main road looking like this on double demerits






So yeah just need to wire up thermos and see if I can squeeze in an alinement, but that seems unlikly, otherwise it should be good for monday

  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sold commodore, minus wheels if anyone wants them for a commie/bmw ( just got to make sure I put the money aside for japan before it evaporates in paint/falcon mods)

Dont quite think they sill fit on trailer/ stagger will be good for it





Went and bought the stuff I needed to wire up thermos, along with some fresh e85. That shit is getting expensive. $139, it was 99C about 3 years ago.

Got it all wired up, off 2 separate switches/ relays to minimise chance of both failing and so I can only run one if I dont need them going full speed. Needs to be adjusted so its tidier, but just wanted them working. HAve to buy some bolts so I can put strut brace back on too.




While I was doing that, quickly painted the overspray from the widebody cuts to make it look a tiny bit more presentable





So then I made it out to wakefield


The falcon tows like a champ, taking off in manual is a lot easier that I was worried about, cruise control in 6th no problems and just knock it back to 5th at the base of big hills and gets up them at 120 no stress. Can recover a whole lot better from idiots brake checking/ pulling out in front halfway up a hill compared to the commo without revving to 6 grand. Also seems to use as much, if not a tad less fuel than the commodore.




The clutch felt fine, 2 way felt a tad different, but nothing major. The 4.3's made the car feel a whole lot more alive, could do the whole short track in 3rd if I got the line right and didnt loose too much speed and didnt rape the clutch anywhere near as much with old ratios. Only issue was trying to keep up the the team red stage guys (f**k those guys are quick for 170kw powered cars) I was entering short track in 4th, which took a bit of getting used to.


Tried to practice quick single flicks and it felt like through out the day I was getting faster and closer to the wall (not scraping, but not 2 car length gaps either).

Thermos worked sweet, with usually only 1 on all the time. If I saw temp in low 90's id flick the other one on on the back straight do another hot lap and temps still would have dropped to mid 80's. I only had to do 1 cool down lap the entire day.

Im still using WAY too much handbrake than im happy with hopefully another day relatively soon and ill get a better feel of letting the angle wash off more speed




Yet the most surprising thing off all is that it f**king survived the whole day without breakage.

The only issue I had the whole day was the KF's getting stuck to the rotor (powder coating stuck?) which took a while to get off. After wrestling with it for ages a light tap with screwdriver and hammer in between wheel face and rotor and popped straight off. In the struggled I realised my wheel bearings that I thought were defiantly getting a bit old, are completely f**ked so have to really do that before driving again. This may account for some of the slop/ wobbling feeling in the rear end.




So plan is to get wheel bearings front and rear



Double check no more things have rattled loose

Drive more

Really need to replace trailer tyres too as one nearly came off the bead and all are pretty bald



Oh and won these for the falcon too, a bit thrashed but will be less paranoid about guttering them as I still have no sense of how close I am to the gutter with silly bonnet buldge

Rear will be a bit of a push so gaurds will need some love, front might need a 15mm

 F: 19x8.5J +19

 R: 19x9.5J -6


Edited by (Locky)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I reckon those would tuck right under with the inners lipped at most.


I enjoy this build thread. Makes me feel shit about myself though.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lovin' all three of them wheels lol. Gimme some dish!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Few things happened over the week

Went to do the rear bearings. AS I was ripping everything apart to get some leverage to bash out the old ones noticed this. This is the side that had a s13 one in there, not sure if it was because it was too short or just because it was out in the weather for a while but the boot didn't last long.



So instead of dodgying it up again, went and bought a pair of lowish KM s15 ones from a wrecker so hopefully will last a little longer. Also grabbed a little boost gauge to match the air assist controller im going to put in the other pod for the falcon on the trip



Got a bunch of shit from america, most of it wasn't for me, but finally got all the bracketry for the sunroof. So with that along with a proper seal its properly functional rather than some bunnings brackets and clark rubber seal silasticed on




Bearing rocked up a few days later, got them pressed in. Went back in without issue. Defiantly a lot less movement int eh rear now. Still some wobbles in the front so I think will order some OEM ones from america this week




Then finally got my hands on these, as helpfully illimuniated by LED light setup I dodged up on the underside of the hardtop. Was shit to unpack in the dark after wakiefeild so does the job nicely.




The KF's are in decent nick, only the lightest rash and no flaky chrome

Would have liked a little more dish, but low offset 9's seem to be hard to come by. The few17x9+5 R disk I saw people wanted silly money for. These have the same lips, but A disk so 9+22. Will be good with a spacer if I want to pull some camber out of the front.




Test fitted ones of the guards today. Fits decent and would only need a slight bow once the inner lipp was trimmed. But not a huge fan of the look after all that wait laugh.png Doesn't help when Ive got someone in my ear telling em the same thing. So will probably put up for sale and order something else, just get it EMS this time to make sure I get it timely







Can finally get a decent judge of its current height

Still looks like its got a bit of rake, so maybe lower the rear half a cm and that will be it





Trying to decide where to just spend some cash on getting it a cheap respray so its atleast one colour, or putting cash towards japan car

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the overs look fantastic man.


can't wait to see the falcon on kf's

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Things done


Sold rear guards as I didnt like the 'child bearing hips' without a kit , paid streeter for new ones, just waiting for him to get them and send them

Ordered some front hubs from america which arrived yesterday


Started off today buy doing oil/filter and fuel filter as apparently e85 stirs up a lot of gunk after conversion and blocks them up real quick, cheap investment to prevent leaning out. I was going to cut it open to see how bad it was, but after 30 sec with hack saw gave up


Went onto hubs, Ever since going driftworks the rear casing seems to always get stuck. Resulting in having to grind/smash it off, lucky I didnt intend to reuse them




All on with new dust covers, they sent me abs ones but makes no real difference.

I found that driftworks seem to sit deeper in the ball joint on the LCA so pin on the crown nut wasn't stopping nut from coming loose so had a bit of excess play. Tightened it up a bit and will have to just keep an eye on it.



Chucked it back together, went for a spin. Still massive wobble above 60KM, pretty violent. Was pretty annoyed after spending all the money on new hubs. Washed the falcon while I thought about it, and before I started chasing my tail I decided to check the front wheels. There were no massive buckles or anything so decided to chuck the KF's on with a 30mm spacer. Went for a drive and even though there was a bit of scrubbing there was no wobble even up to 90KM. So it may have been the equips need to be rebalanced or something

They fit less mexican too being only -8 rather than -20










So plan is alinement, then put on new rear gaurds.

Trying to make wakie day on 14th of june, then should really call it a day and save for japan. Look to get it painted after that

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Went to get an alinement from my usual guy. Car was too low/cambered so his old style machine wouldnt pick it up. He at least set the rear camber along with swapping some tyres over and rebalanced the equips as good as he could without putting weights on the outside. Mate dropped by, his photo shows how silly it looks with that much difference in camber and no rear guards. So I need to go to someone with one of those mirror ball lazer pad alinment machines, or learn how to string aline toe



Also picked up these SSR Agles Minerva. Went to look at them and the chrome was a lot more flaky than described/he thought and not a huge market for 17x8+37 chromies. Lowballed him and got them cheap, otherwise wouldnt have bothered. With new 4 and 5in lips they will turn into 17x9.5+18 and 10.5+5 so pretty much within a few mm of current rears, front will need 15mm spacer to clear brakes and fill gaurds. Will get centers coated or rechromed, but all that will happen after japan. hoping I can do this IDA day on the cheap with some 2nd handers and only buy 1 new pair to save to buy matsuri car. Then that will be it till august






Bit the bullet, booked flights for japan in august. Not wanting to leave waiting for a car till the last min, and nothing super exciting coming up from PV in my price range, took a chance and bought privately this thing.



Strait body

Clutch up grade

Buddy club rims fronts 8 rear 9



KAAZ 1.5 way. 4.1 final

Greddy front mount

Bov delete

Ajustable front upper arms

Bride seat

2 spare work rims

sway bars front and rear,

rack spacers,

frp bonnet,

rear subframe collars,

jzx110 tension rods,

rear strut brace.




I have never toyota'ed before but looked like a pretty all round package and something clean enough that if im not too silly should last at least 2 trips over.


Delivery guy got here a stupid early time in the morning when working arvo shift, but glad guards were hear. Un wrapped them and they weren't damaged which is always good

Ended up ordering the new Origin +55. Was a little worring as I had only seem the demo car whith them moulded in and some bad pics of a grey one.



Have a massive 2in lip that needed to be trimmed off



They hung out in my living room for a while till I had a day off, on friday I started on them, trimming the inner lip. Test fitting them the worry of them not suiting faded a bit. Then realised this was going to be harder than the rocket bunny ones. needing a lot more trimming.

Josh came round to help which was great as It would have been a massacre doing it by myself. The fuel cap area needed a lot of trimming. Its kinda like the guard sat inside the fuel neck, but then there was no room for the flap to swing. After a lot of f**king around got it to fir whilst still just being able to open and close. They defiantly aren't fitting perfect, but compared to all the other panel gaps not too bad.

The passenger side was a bit worse have a bit more of a bow. I didnt want to use too many rivits so there is a bit of a gap in places from the bow, but can be sorted later.















In the end I like them, the cut off doesn't look too bad with tyre there. Also flows with the fronts a bit more and still has a bit of the N2 style in it. Fit wasn't amazing, but kinda like always being origin and for the price cant complain


Defiantly need to do something with the skirts though. They defiantly look too small, but nearly everything else aftermarket is too big for the front bar


So doing wakie on the 14th then its saving for japan, so not much else will happen till after that.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those guards look the buisness, N2 style for the win.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks really good locky, those rear guards look awesome and work really well!


RE skirts, look into maybe getting a lip for the front? Couldn't find one under $200 for FRP copy, vertex skirts come to mind though that would prob be the next size up from aero. Or maybe some of the chunkier skirts (think biggie has his still??)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

you need either hot road or g-grow skirts. theyre like type x skirts, but hang a bit lower, and bit chunkier

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

looking good buddy!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a fan of the hotroad/type x style and most things aftermarket will hang super low compared to everything else


So yeah made it to wakie, it was raining on the way down and I thought it was going to be typical set in for the day, cold and miserable. But the rain stopped as we were rocking up. Then not long after breifing the sun came out so it was a promising sign (actually turned into a fairly warm day which is crazy for wakie at this time of year)


Anyway first session and the track was still wet and slippery. noticed a bit of a miss, but wasnt a big deal sliding around in the wet. 2nd session it started to dry up and under load in 3rd it was making machine gun miss fires. Turned the boost controller off and was running on actuator and wasnt tooo bad for that session as it was still a bit slippery. The rain hadnt come back so Decided to chuck some fresh plugs in. Took it for a hit down the main road (rego life :) ) did a 3rd gear pull fine in low, which is what usually skid on anyway so was fixed enough for now.

Got back out just in time to do my session, track had dried up a bit, but someone had dumped oil or fuel down the main straight and cut across entry point for short track. That along with mud being brought up to most the apexs made it very inconstant with grip. Was starting to get the hang of it a few laps into that session and even had the action cam on, noticed I was starting to get a bit of smoke happening. Managed to catch up with shane to try and so started a bit of tandeming. But on the 2nd lap with him a tyre let go, luckly no fiberglass was exploded this time.



Chucked the 18s on, next session, they were so slippery being the old front tyres off the commodore. But I was starting to get a hang of the surface and get a bit of confidence up. Did a bit of long and car can actually link long reliaitvly easier now, its fun, but you are just baking tyres. Back to short and instead of my usual top of 3rd entry then hang on the handbrake for an eternity. I was starting to get the hang of initiating, still high up in 3rd, but getting back on the power into the first apex of short. I tried to mount the cam inside the car, but it fell off at the start line so no footage, but was finally some drifting I was happy with, carrying a lot more speed and far less handbrake. Was going good till one time on the 2nd apex I start hearing horrible kocking.

Pull over, not leaving a trail of oil or anything so nurse back to pits, temp/ pressure doesnt seem strange. Gears feel hard to get into, but not sure. Park up and turn it off, later turn it on and consensus begin its probably bottom end due to loud kocking. Dont turn it back on push it on the trailer with a bit of help and go back to watch for the rest of the arvo.




Get home then the next day roll it off the trailer. Try to push around to park it up, but got stuck on the hill. though f**k it whats another 20 sec of driving to get over the hill after I drove it all the way to the pits. Quickly start it, go to move, and notice noise went away when I got on the clutch, check again, clutch in its just making its usual engine noise. So with a bit of confirmation it goes back to my original thought of just the box.


Definatly the lesser of 2 evils as I was considering doing the 1J swap if that was the end of the SR.

The box had held up pretty good for 5 year of abuse and countless dodgy owners before me in the 14. Though issue is throwing another SR box in could only last another day now with less camber and more power than ever before.

I could do usual RB/Z32 box, but doing some reading into a Z33 box swap.


Can get a collins atapter kit that includes -

SR20DET to 350Z Transmission Adapter plate

Clutch release bearing adapter

S13/S14/S15 Transmission Crossmember including the transmission mount

350Z Slip Yoke (so you can make the driveshaft)


BRAND new OEM CD009 with the best syncro Z33 box along with all the OEM z33 clutch fork/salve stuff and nismo shifter


McKinney VQ35 Shifter Bracket - to relocate shifter without having to cut and shut


All for around 4K delivered

Then it would just be a matter of machining bellhousing, getting tail shaft modded and new clutch line (as the slave is on opposite side, might be able to get away with a LHD s13 one though as they are made super long as they are on other side of sr slave)


That kinda seems a better deal compared to 2.5-3K for a 15 year old box + conversion gear



But all just thoughts atm, but nothing will happen till after japan, just means I wont be coming up for QLD matsuri unless I just slap a SR box in and it wont get paint for even longer

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was always interested in Z33 boxes, but there were no off the shelf setups... I never have time off during the day to go see workshops to get work done, either, so it was never going to be a go.


For those playing at home, FS5W71C vs. FS6R30A


tasty box.jpg

Edited by Wizard

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this